"Ternes" is a residential area (but less stuffy than the Plaine Monceau) as well as being a business and entertainment area.
vast majority are in stone with just a few in brick or stucco. This
meant that the area escaped much of the destruction in the 60s and
70s which led to the concrete eyesores by anonymous architects in
other parts of the city. By looking skywards at the social housing in
Place du Général Koenig you catch a glimpse of the decorative detail which proves
that “social” didn’t necessarily mean low-cost. At 41 ave de Wagram
there is a contemporary façade to what used to be the Théâtre
de l’Empire which is more than just plate glass. Right opposite
stands the Ceramic Hotel with its superb art nouveau front.
are often to be found on the stone-clad buildings dating from 1860 –
1914 hence the numerous examples in this area many of which have
touches of originality.
if many artists preferred Monceau or Batignolles, the area still has
a number of studio workshops some of which cannot be seen from the
street. Many of them have been successfully restored recently especially
those in the rue Emile Allez whose bright colours are not particularly
Parisian; and they have kept the winches used to haul up large
canvasses from the street.
Salle Wagram was opened in 1812 as a café-cum-dance hall or
“ginguette” » (being outside the city walls at that time no duty
was paid on wine) and converted into a dance-hall in 1865. It was
also used for political rallies and sporting events such as boxing
matches. More recently it has been used as a recording studio (Maria
Callas /Leonard Bernstein) and as a setting for many films. The
Théâtre de l’Empire at 41 avenue de Wagram was built in 1897 on
the site of a naval club. It was rebuilt in 1924 and renovated in
1962. It was used as a television studio until its destruction by
fire in 2005 since when it has been a luxury hotel. A little further down the avenue one of the very few gaming clubs daring to publize themselves. Not far away (beyond Place
des Ternes) is the chief Parisian concert hall, Salle Pleyel. In
1816 a roller coaster was erected in the rue Bélidor and there was an
outdoor fairground called Luna Park at Porte Maillot. This was
demolished in 1948 and the site eventually became the Palais des
On the huge swathe of land between the rue de Courcelles and rue des Renaudes there was,
from 1821 to 1894, a gas works using distilled coal which made the
neighbourhood filthy. In 1892 a
manufacturer of bicycles and later cars (Clément) set up in
rue Brunel before moving its workshops out to the suburbs. The
department store (now a FNAC) took over the site of “L’Economie
Ménagère” in 1912. Today, industry has given way to
offices of which there are many although the area is still
residential. The Palais des Congrès is used for conventions
and stage spectaculars.
artists and celebrities
Edmond Audran, composer (1842-1901) lived at 27 rue Guillaume Tell. Léon Barillot, painter and engraver of animals (1844-1929) lived at 29bis
rue Pierre Demour. Albert Besnard (1849-1934) had his home at 17 rue Guillaume Tell. 2 place du Général Koenig was the last Paris residence of Pierre Bonnard
(1867-1947). Jules Cheret, painter and designer of posters (1836-1932) was at 41 rue Bayen. Edouard
Detaille, painter (1848-1912) lived at 24 avenue de la Grande Armée before settling at 129 boulevard Malsherbes. Captain Dreyfus lived at 7 rue des Renaudes. Albert
Edelfelt (1854-1905) a Finn painter who painted a famous portrait of Pasteur stayed at 147 avenue de Villiers where he shared a studio with Pascal Dagnan-Bouveret (1852-1929), Gustave Courtois and Jules Bastien-Lepage (1848-1884) before the latter moved to rue Legendre. The composers Gabriel Fauré (1845-1924) lived at 93 avenue Niel and Maurice Ravel (1875-1937) at 4 avenue Carnot. The painter Georges Rochegrosse
lived for a while in one the detached houses in the villa des Ternes as did the novelist Edmond About (1828-1885). The composer Déodat de Séverac
(1872-1921) stayed at 17 rue Brey. The composer and organist Louis Vierne (1870-1937) lived at 32 rue Saint Ferdinand.
from Pierre Bonnard many of these names have faded from memory
Albert Besnard won the Grand Prix de Rome in 1874 and beacame the first painter to be elected to the Académie Française since 1760; among his sitters were such well-known personalities as Princess Mathilde, the actress Réjane, Gabriele d'Annunzio, Mr and Mrs Cognacq owners of la Samaritaine department store; he also decorated the hall of the faculté de Pharmacie, an amphitheatre
at the Sorbonne, ceilings at the Hôtel de
Ville de Paris (City hall), at Comédie Française and Petit Palais.
Pascal Dagnan-Bouveret also worked at the decoration of the Hôtel de Ville and the Sorbonne; his works can be found at the Orsay museum in Paris as well in Lyon, Chambery and the Metropolitan museum in New York.
Jules Chéret produced hundred of posters for well-known brands, performers and theatres (Moulin Rouge, Folies Bergères) and even the curtain for the theatre inside the Musée Grévin (Tussaud museum); he inluenced Toulouse-Lautrec whom he knew; he also worked on the Hôtel de Ville de Paris, public buildings in Nice...
Albert Edelfelt came to Paris in1874 and he studied with Jean-Léon Gérome; le musée d'Orsay conserve plusieurs toiles de lui.